We have tried to be as descriptive as possible with our instructions. At first glance they may come across as mind boggling complicated and simply undoable for some. However you could not be further from the truth. While installing veneer stone can be hard work it is also very rewarding and will be something that you can be proud to say "I did that !". One rule that we were taught when we were learning to be a bricklayer was " what looks complicated is almost always simple" Follow our steps and you will have success and remember you will always be able to talk to us if you feel you might be in trouble.
Interior applications Including Concrete board,plywood,particle, board, drywall, existing brick or block
Step 1: Calculating Materials
Before you can begin the installation project, you will need to calculate the proper amount of material for your thin stone veneer project.
How Much Stone Do You Need?
Begin by figuring the square footage of the area you plan to cover with stone (length x height). If your project includes cornerstones, deduct 1 square foot for each linear foot of corners that you will utilize.
Mesure all doors and windows (length x height) and subtract this amount from the area you plan to cover
Example: If Your project is 10 feet long and 10 Feet high (10X10=100 Square feet (SF) ) You have a window that is 5 feet wide and 4 feet high (5X4=25 Sf) The total square feet of stone needed is 75Sf (100-25= 75 sf)
For outside corners we supply corners on a linear foot bases. Simply Measure the corner from top to bottom
Note: 1 Linear foot is equivalent to 1 sf of flats
Splitter Creek always recommends ordering 5-7% extra for Waste and cuts
Not Sure? Message Splitter Creek and we can help calculate your stone needs.
Mortar Joint Size
One aspect to consider when calculating your materials is the size of the mortar joint between the pieces of stone. Most stone is packaged assuming a 1/2" mortar joint. If your joint will vary (such as a dry-stack or over grout application) adjust your estimates accordingly.
Now that you have purchased our stone it is time to install it !
Step 2: Surface preparation
Stone veneer can be installed directly to some of these surfaces if clean and absent of any paint or debris. Be sure to inspect new concrete to insure there is no release agents (form oil) on the surface. If release agents are present, etch the surface of the concrete with etching agent. Surfaces that have been painted must be sandblasted or otherwise stripped of paint. Surface must be free of paint, dust, or dirt. If cleaning of surface is too difficult, metal lath may be affixed to the surface with concrete nails. In accordance with local building codes. Stop metal lath 1" from finished edges. Be sure to wrap all corners, overlapping the metal lath at least 6"Nail or screw metal on a 6X6" square and every 4"on studding with a wide head nail or screw always install wire lath where spalling or cracks are present.
Step 4: Preparing Your Stone for Installation
To achieve the best results, there are a few things you should take care of before starting your stone veneer installation.
Plan Your Layout:
Before applying the stone, it is a good idea to lay the stone out flat to determine the sizing and colors of each individual piece, how they will be laid out for your project, and if any trimming is necessary. Attempt to keep joints a consistent height and width. Normally vertical and horizontal joints should be staggered to prevent long, unbroken lines that may draw the eye to a particular area.
Trimming the Stone:
If cutting the stone is necessary, a Skill saw, grinder or tile saw with either a dry or wet cut diamond or masonry blade will work. You may also want to use a masonry hammer to break the stone, giving it a more natural appearance. A nipper can also be used to trim small amounts off the stone.
Clean the Stone:
Be certain that the surface of the stone is free of dust, dirt, or any loose particles. If necessary, wash the stone completely.
Step 5: Installing the Stone Veneer
You will be affixing the stone veneer to the interior of your home using a stone veneer mortar. Below are the steps involved.
Mixing the Mortar:
Use our pre-blended, polymer fortified spec mix mortar and water known as SVM (Stone Veneer Mortar). Message Splitter Creek for available products and tips. Mix according to manufacturer's directions.
Installing the Stone:
It is recommended to install all corner pieces first before installing the field. It is also recommended to work your way from the bottom to top.
Use a masonry brush or sponge to dampen the back of the stone, but do not saturate it. This prevents the stone from pulling moisture away from the mortar allowing it to dry naturally and with a stronger bond.
To lay the stone, use a masonry trowel to butter the back of the stone with 1/2" to 1" layer of mortar. Using your trowel, create a ridge around the outside back of the stone. This will create suction when putting the stone in place, which will help to hold the stone until the mortar sets up. Lay the stone against the wall, pressing and rotating slightly, forcing some of the mortar to squeeze out freely.
Step 6: Grouting and Tooling
Once the stone has been affixed to the surface using mortar, the joints, or gaps between the stone, will be filled with grout.
Filling the Joints:
Use Pre-blended Type S mortar. Using a grout bag, cut a hole approximately 1/2" in the tip of the bag (if hole is not already provided). Fill your grout bag about half full with your grout mixture. Twist the top end of the bag and squirt a small amount into a bucket to prevent air pockets. Fill all the joints between the stones with about a 1/2" layer of mortar (more or less depending on the desired effect and joint size.)
Tooling the Joints:
As the grout stiffens thumbprint dry, tool to the desired depth using a joint tool. Brush the joints with a whisk broom to smooth them out and clean away any loose mortar. Grout is ready for finishing when it crumbles away like sand when brushed. If the grout smears or falls away in large chunks, it is still too wet for brushing or striking. Finally use a soft bristled brush to sweep the dust off the stone. If there is any white smudges on the stone or surrounding area us a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water and a soft cloth or brush to clean up
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US
WE ARE HERE TO HELP
Step 3: Scratch Coat
A scratch coat will be needed when metal lath is used. This step is not necessary when applying stone veneer to a cleaned concrete, masonry, Concrete board or stucco surface.
NOTE If installing to lath and plaster you must Ither:
A: Remove all lath and plaster andand install concrete board or plywood.
B: If wall is straight install concrete board or plywood over lath and plaster make sure you nail or screw through the plaster and lath and in to the stud's
Mixing the Scratch Coat:
Using our spec-mix Add water slowly to the mixture a little at a time, continually mixing until you have achieved the consistency of a paste or whipped potatoes. Mix a minimum of 5 minutes.
Applying the Scratch Coat:
If a scratch coat is necessary, use a 3/8" to 1/2" notched trowel to apply a 1/2" to 3/4" layer of the scratch coat mix over your metal lath. Cover the entire area of the lath, working the cement into the holes and scraping off any excess. Use a notched trowel to rake horizontal grooves in the scratch coat while the cement is still wet and allow to dry for 24 hours.